San Alfonso Catholic Church stands at the corner of Calles Simón Bolivar and Antonio Borrero in Cuenca. Constructed in 1874, the blue spires and whitewashed stucco walls shine as if new, while nearby buildings of much newer vintage range in appearance from humdrum to decrepit. The assembled crowd looked on as Capitán Ernesto Guillén, chief detective for Zone Six of Ecuador’s policía nacional, emerged slowly from his SUV and squinted into the sun. A big man, Guillén stands just a little over six feet tall and weighs in at 220 pounds. A standout goalie for Cuenca’s soccer team in his

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