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First, she stole my sleep. Then she stole my heart, and we protected Egyptian history along the way, in the Valley of Kings and Queens. Let me begin at the beginning, as instructed by Lewis Carroll. I hadn’t slept for two days. Only the promise of a dark, quiet cabin aboard the MS Mayyah kept me from crawling along the firework-patterned maroon carpet to my suite. At least I didn’t have to adjust my balance on a stormy sea since the enormous cruise ship had docked in Luxor, in the city formerly known as Thebes, on the relatively sedate waters